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Municipal WinemakersJason and I stopped by the Municipal Winemakers tasting room on Saturday 2/20 to help celebrate the grand opening.  Judging by the crowd it was a resounding success.  Seriously…people were crammed into the tasting room like sardines.   We managed to squeeze our way in the door and then after many “excuse mes” made it to the table where the Municipal Winemakers 2008 Bright White was being poured.  This is a dry Riesling which would match well with ceviche, flip-flops and a casual, sunny Santa Barbara afternoon.    After this we tasted the Municipal Winemakers 2007  Bright Red which is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah – in the Cotes du Rhone style.    Next up was the Municipal Winemakers 2007  Dark Red which is a blend of Shiraz and Cabernet.  Winemaker Dave Potter used fruit from outstanding vineyards in order to make this wine.  The Cabernet Sauvignon is from Star Lane which just happens to be one of my favorite vineyards located in the newly created Happy Canyon AVA – (American Viticulture Area).   He also used Syrah from Tierra Alta and Fess Parker’s Camp Four vineyard.  Some Syrah made from Camp Four fruit have some interesting smoky undertones -  like the Consilience 2005  Syrah Camp Four Vineyard.    The Municipal Winemakers 2007 Dark Red is good wine for backyard barbeques.   Lastly, we tasted the Municipal Winemakers 2007 Fizz which is a sparkling Shiraz which is sealed with a crown cap like what you’d find on a soda bottle.  While this type of closure seems a bit unusual, it is actually fairly common in Australia where Potter learned quite a bit about making wine.

Winemaker Dave Potter

Municipal Winemaker Dave Potter

After this Jason and I managed to find Potter in this mob of people to congratulate him on the fabulous turn out.

Then we walked over to the Kunin/Westerly tasting room where we found enough space for the two of us at the bar.   I have a few favorites here.  First  the Kunin 2006 Viognier Stolpman Vineyard.  This is a classic Viognier with floral and apricot aromas.  On the palate it is soft and rich – truly a beautiful wine.  My other favorite is the Kunin 2007 Pape Star – this is a red blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Mourvedre and 15% Syrah in the style of wines of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC in France.  Kunin’s Pape Star reminds me of  wines we tasted in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC with Jason – back when the exchange rate wasn’t so bad.   We decided to taste a few wines, head to head from the Kunin library:  2001 Syrah Alisos Vineyard, 2003 Syrah Alisos Vineyard and 2004 Syrah Alisos Vineyard – almost a vertical flight.  The 2001 had more of a nose and oddly enough more fruit than the ‘03 or the ‘04.  The ‘01  had flavors of black cherry, white pepper with some faint herbal notes on the finish.  The ‘03 was a bit more reserved and featured less fruit and spice than the ‘01.  The ‘04 was the earthiest of the three wines and Jason thought it would be good with a cigar.   All in all a good day of wine tasting – and only 10 minutes from our house!

Library Vertical tasting at Kunin

Library "almost" Vertical tasting at Kunin: 2001, 2003, 2004 Syrah Alisos Vineyard

Margerum Wine CompanyThere are only a handful of days that the Margerum Wine Company is open to the public – the rest of the time it is open by appointment only.   February 13th was one of those public days, so my husband and I headed on down to the winery to go taste some vino.  We bumped into our neighbors Pamela and Albert who asked us to join them for dinner at the Ballard Inn.   Jason and I are big fans of chef Budi Kazali’s creative and flavorful menus so this was a welcome opportunity to go there with fellow foodies.   More on this later!

Here is the list of wines from the “official” tasting list of the day (which didn’t include all the surprise bottles that winemaker Doug Margerum  opened) and some comments:

2008 Margerum Chenin Blanc – light yellow color, crisp on the palate, flavors of white grapefruit – perfect wine for scallops and other seafood.

2008 Pinot Gris – fermented in 75% stainless steel and 25% barrel, high acid, lean wine

2006 Grenache – my husband Jason (a dedicated Grenache fan) really liked this one.  It is expressive, but not dark or big or high in alcohol.  It is subtle and would complement many foods…salmon or pork loin came to mind while tasting this wine.

2007 M5 – Jason and I have been fans of Doug Margerum’s M5 blend for many years.  The 2007 offering had some interesting notes of sasparilla that I don’t recall from previous vintages.  I’d recommend cellaring the 2007 M5 one 3-5 more years to increase the flavor integration.   While we were tasting the 2007 Doug opened up a bottle of the 2008 M5 which is scheduled to be released in mid March.  The 2008 is fruitier and very approachable now.  You can drink the 2008 M5 this one while you are cellaring your 2007.

2006 Syrah “Alisos Vinyard” – This is an absolutely beautiful Syrah from its color all the way the finish.  The only bad part was that so few bottles were made…only 50 cases.

2006 Syrah “Alondra De Los Prados Vineyard” – This was my favorite wine of the day – which is a high compliment because I tasted some beautifully made wines.  The Alondra De Los Prados Syrah or ADP as it is called for short, is actually 5% Viognier.  The Syrah and the Viognier are co-planted and co-fermented.  The resulting wine has some floral notes which Viognier is known for the Syrah takes center stage with its intensity and power.  Margerum recommends that this one be cellared for a few more years, but I will have a hard time keeping the corkscrew away from the case I bought.  Only 125 cases were produced, so I highly recommend ordering a few while you still can.

2006 Syrah “Black Oak Vineyard” – This was another great example of the fabulous Syrahs that Doug makes – mmmmm…black cherry and hints of anise.

2006 Syrah “Colson Canyon Vineyard” – Aromas of florals, cassis and anise with flavors of cherry, black plum and white pepper.  I bought a few of these to cellar for about 5 years.   If you’re into wine scores, Stephen Tanzer rated this one a 90.

2006 Syrah “Great Oaks Ranch Vineyard” – Wines made of fruit from Great Oaks tend to have spice characteristics that I really enjoy.  This intense wine offers flavors of anise, cracked pepper, coffee and black cherry.

2006 Syrah “Purisima Mountain Vineyard” – Flavors of cassis, dried cherries, black plum, blackberries and some earthy notes.   The finish was long and lovely!   Wine Spectator gave this wine 90 points.

2006 ÜBER Syrah – This is an extremely well planned wine.  Margerum sourced Syrah fruit from seven different vineyards, and then picked and co-fermented them over 45 days.    Then he blends in carefully selected barrels of single-vineyard Syrah – resulting in a powerful, dense wine.  This is one of my favorite Syrahs because there is so much going on in the glass – rich, powerful and layered.  Drink ÜBER and treat your mouth to an adventure.  =)

1995 Antinori Solaia - one of the most famous Super Tuscan wines in the world

1995 Antinori Solaia

There were a few other wines that we were able to taste that weren’t on the official list.   The most exciting one for me was the 1995 Antinori Solaia.  This is one of the most famous “Super Tuscan” wines in the world, made by the Antinori family who have been making wine for six centuries.   Needless to say it was a real treat to taste this wine!   It is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc. The years in the bottle were well spent, leaving soft, well-integrated tannins.  On the palate, flavors of blackberry, currant, boysenberry lead to a long and fruity finish.

The lineup for the evening.

The evening's lineup of wines.

After the event at the winery was wrapping up we headed over to Doug Margerum’s house to continue our wine tasting adventure.  (Thanks again for your hospitality Doug!)   Doug opened a number of wines from his collection including a 2001 Vieux Telegraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Châteauneuf-du-Pape happens to be one of my favorite wine-producing regions in the world.  Clearly this is my lucky day!

After enjoying Doug’s hospitality and  some really interesting conversations (“Hi” to Fisch and Blaine), Pamela, Albert, Jason and I headed over to Ballard Inn for dinner.   We ordered most of the appetizers – *all* were wonderful, but my favorites were the “winter turnip soup with duck confit and Fuji apple salad”, the “red roast Kurobata pork belly with Napa cabbage fondue” and the “panko crusted sweetbreads with Madeira sauce”.   It was hard to choose an entree because they all sounded so good.   The “pan seared duck breast with sweet potato puree and balsamic reduction” is what I usually order, but the “Australian rack of lamb with creamy farro, leeks, fennel and star anise glace” sounded amazing.  I eventually settled on the “crispy skin arctic char with roasted fingerling potatoes and horseradish nage”.   Everything was beautifully presented and incredibly flavorful!   Kazali’s food was the perfect ending to a decadent and fun-filled day!

Disco ball hung in the doorway to the Margerum Wine Company barrel room

Disco ball hung in the doorway to the Margerum Wine Company barrel room

Jason, Pamela and Tony in the barrel room at Margerum Wine Company

Jason, Pamela and Tony in the barrel room at Margerum Wine Company

The aftermath of some serious wine tasting at Margerum Wine Company

Who knew that pork cracklins pair so well with sparkling off-dry German Rieslings?

Pork cracklins + sparkling off-dry German Rieslings = Strangely wonderful wine/food pairing

Wine is good living.

The text on this painting from Doug Margerum's collection reads "wine is good living". I couldn't agree more.

Municipal Winemakers

2/20 tasting room grand opening 2pm-6pm

Don’t miss the grand opening of the Municipal Winemakers‘ tasting room 2/20/2010 from 2pm-6pm.  Taste some wine and enjoy h’ors d’oeuvres and wish winemaker Dave Potter congratulations!  The tasting room is located at 28 Anacapa Street in Santa Barbara.  It is located behind the Kunin/Westerly tasting room.  If you decide to go taste at Kunin/Westerly too, make sure you taste the 2007 Kunin Pape Star.   It is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape style blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah aged for 10 months in neutral oak barrels.  Enjoy!

A foodie friend of ours Lee from Vancouver was going to be in Los Angeles and called to see if we wanted to meet up for dinner at Animal a couple nights ago.  Jason and I haven’t seen Lee in a while and we love to try out new restaurants so we accepted the invitation.   There were 7 of us who ended up at Animal at 8:45pm on a Tuesday night.   As we waited for our table to open up, someone spotted Bobby Flay eating at a table near the bar.   That is a good sign…I figure Flay knows a little something about food.   Another good sign was a local who’d eaten there numerous times who was also waiting for a table absolutely gushing to us about the menu.  He listed about 6 things off the menu that we “had to order”.   I noticed that many of the tables were full in spite of the fact that it was late on a Tuesday – another good sign.   The restaurant was sparsely decorated…actually to call it “sparse” implies too much.  There were bare lightbulbs screwed into sockets on the walls and a couple of framed animal skulls hanging on the walls.  Clearly the decor won’t be distracting us from the food.   We were seated and started ordering almost immediately.   I was pleasantly surprised to see the 2008 Dragonette Rose (Grenache / Syrah) on the bottle list.  Dragonette is a premium quality, boutique winery located in Lompoc in an area affectionately called the “wine ghetto”.   They’re making some beautiful wines – we barrel tasted there a few months ago and I fell in love with a barrel of co-fermented Syrah and Viognier.   The rose was a perfect beginning to a fabulous meal!  We ended up ordering nearly everything on the menu – it was all outstanding!   Here is a photo of the menu for the evening that we were there.

Menu at Animal in Los Angeles

Menu at Animal: 435 N. Fairfax Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90036 (323) 782-9225

We loved everything with the exception of the green garlic broth with grilled toast, but there were a few dishes that you really must order.  First and foremost, the barbeque pork belly sandwiches with slaw.  We ordered this dish three times over the course of the evening and each time when it arrived at the table, I wasn’t able to get my camera out quickly enough to snap a photo before the food was devoured!  Suffice it to say it was amazing – especially with the bottle of 2005 Anjou Chateau Perray Jouannet (a red blend dominated by Cabernet Franc).   Another dish that went too fast for me to get a photo was the pig ear with chili, lime and fried egg.  I like bacon – alot- however pig ear sounded more like something my dogs would enjoy.  After tasting the saltiness of the pig’s ear countered by the tart acid of the lime juice , I won’t be sharing this with my dogs, ever.  Wow – this was really good!  Also, the rabbit loin with parsnip, pear mostarda and Benton’s bacon was fabulous (this dish and the barbeque pork belly sandwiches were my two absolute favorites of the evening).   Skatewing isn’t something you see on menus in the United States much – this preparation with collards, rutabaga and grainy mustard was wonderful.  We ordered two of these because the other side of the table kept hoarding the skate.  Skatehoarding is not a crime!   ;)   Sorry, I just had to say it.  If you are into foie gras, Animal offers some really creative and very tasty versions.  a) Foie gras, biscuit, maple sausage gravy and b) foie gras loco moco with quail egg, spam and hamburger.  Both were out of this world!    By the time we got to the end of the meal we were all too full for dessert…this fact wasn’t enough to stop us from ordering every dessert on the menu.  The tres leches with dulche de leche was rich and sweet – my husband gave it two thumbs up.  I was partial to the bacon chocolate crunch bar with s&p anglaise…bacon, chocolate and anglaise.  Need I say more?  Joe’s doughnuts with cinnamon sugar and caramel were also very good and so was the panna cotta with saba (which I learned is a sweet reduction of grape must).   Ultimately, I cannot do the food at Animal justice with words and photos…you simply *must* go there.   Better yet, go with a group so you can order the whole menu!

Foie gras loco moco quail egg spam hamburger

Foie gras loco moco quail egg spam hamburger

Sweetbreads, creamed spinach and hen of the woods mushrooms

Sweetbreads, creamed spinach and hen of the woods mushrooms

Melted Petit Basque with chorizo and grilled bread

Melted Petit Basque with chorizo and grilled bread


Poutine, oxtail gravy, cheddar

Poutine, oxtail gravy, cheddar - Poutine ("poutine québécoise") is French Canadian comfort food.

Skatewing with collards, rutabaga and grainy mustard

Skatewing with collards, rutabaga and grainy mustard - Skate hoarding is not a crime. ;)

2008 Dragonette Rose

2008 Dragonette Rose and Animal's by the glass list

Foie gras, biscuit, maple sausage gravy

Foie gras, biscuit, maple sausage gravy

Rabbit loin with parsnip, pear mostarda and Benton's bacon

Rabbit loin with parsnip, pear mostarda and Benton's bacon

Sallie, Michael and Maggie - Note the incriminating balsamic barbeque sauce on Michael's fingers from the pork ribs. :)

Liz wonders who ordered the vegetables as she eyes the balsamic glazed pork ribs.

Liz wonders who ordered the vegetables as she eyes the balsamic glazed pork ribs.

Happy Birthday Lee!

Happy Birthday Lee!

On the way out to Los Olivos for a wine tasting event, we stopped at Brander.  I’d served Brander’s 2008 Purisima Sauvignon Blanc at a wine dinner a few weeks ago.  I’d been meaning to come back to buy more ever since.  One of the guests at the wine dinner, a self-proclaimed “reds only” guy, tasted it and said “I’ve been wrong about white wine my whole life”.   Truly a high compliment – and a worthy wine.  Many Sauvignon Blancs, especially those with aromatics of grass or “cat pee”, are totally lost on me.  This Sauvignon Blanc has heady floral aromatics and a great balance of fruit and acid.  It will be a great match for seafood!   In addition to the Purisima Sauvignon Blanc we tasted a number of other wines from Brander.  The 2008 Cuvee Nicolas, a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, was another well balanced white from Brander.  It spent 5 months in neutral French oak before it was bottled.  It is slightly rounded on the palate, though it still has good acidity.   An all-around great food wine!   We also tasted some of Brander’s red wines.  The 2008 Brander Merlot is really wonderful with flavors of black cherries and chocolate.  It only spent 5 months in French and American oak – so the flavor of the fruit really shine.  Priced at $20 a bottle (or $216 a case), this wine is an incredible value – lots of bang for the buck!    Another great red is the 2007 Brander Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  Even though it is young, there is already fabulous flavor integration and it is drinking well now.  I grabbed a few of these so that I can have Cabernet to drink while I am waiting for my Napa Cabs to sufficiently age.  =)

Bob Lindquist, Ethan Lindquist and Paige Lindquist

Bob Lindquist, Ethan Lindquist and Paige Lindquist

After Brander we headed to Los Olivos to the Qupe tasting room where winemaker Bob Lindquist lead a tasting of all the wines that Qupe makes from the Bien Nacido Vineyard.  It was an impressive lineup of whites and reds:

2008 Qupe Bien Nacido Cuvee – this is a blend of 50% Chardonnay/50% Viognier.  Qupe has been making this blend since 1992.  For this blend the Chardonnay fruit is picked underripe and the Viognier is picked slightly overripe – resulting in good structure, freshness and balance.

2008 Qupe Chardonnay Bien Nacido Y Block – This wine is made from fruit picked at varying times which means that the wine is both crisp (from earlier picked fruit – at 21 brix) and lush (from later picked fruit – at 25 brix).

2007 Qupe Chardonnay Bien Nacido Reserve Block 11 – This Chardonnay has 22% Roussanne blended into it which gives the wine headier aromatics.   Bob Lindquist says that “this wine can age beautifully for 10-15 years.”

2007 Qupe Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate – Roussanne is a challenging grape on many different levels.  It is difficult to grow well and it is also challenging in the cellar.  This wine is fermented and aged in barrels that were used once for Chardonnay.   This year’s vintage is more crisp and minerally than past vintages and should develop into a more complex wine over time.

2006 Qupe Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate – Named “Best New World Wine” by Decanter magazine, this is a perfectly balanced 100% Roussanne grown in Block 10 of Bien Nacido.  The vines are Tablas Creek clones; these are originally from Chateau de Beaucastel in the Chateauneuf du Papes.

2000 Qupe Roussanne Bien Nacido Vineyard – At 10 years of age, this balanced wine is drinking really beautifully.  The fruit for this wine was the first crop off of a custom planting at Bien Nacido.  It was fermented and aged in one year old Francois Freres French oak barrels (that had been used once for Chardonnay) for 15 months.

2007 Qupe Syrah Bien Nacido – 3% of the Syrah fruit was sourced from the new Sawyer-Lindquist Vineyard.  The weather during fruit set was very windy, which caused yields to be low and increased the intensity of the flavors.   Lindquist says that this one can be cellared for 8-12 years.

2006 Qupe Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate – The fruit for this Syrah is from a 5 acre southwest facing slope called Z block.  This block is farmed organically to Qupe’s specifications.  This is Qupe’s 20th vintage of Syrah.

2006 Qupe Syrah 25th Anniversary Bien Nacido X Block – The block where this fruit was grown is farmed biodynamically by the Bien Nacido team.  Lindquist used 50% whole clusters in the fermentation which adds layers of spice and complexity.  He made this wine specifically to cellar – he says you can lay this one down for 20-25 years.

1999 Qupe Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate -  Lauded by critics (96 points from Wine & Spirits magazine) since its release in 2002, this wine is drinking beautifully in 2010 with flavors of fruit, spice and smoke.  1999 was rainy and cold and the grapes ripened very slowly.  In fact, the grapes for this wine were harvested on November 18 at 22.5 degrees brix – later than any other Qupe vintage to date.

Lindquist was clearly in his element pouring wine with help from son Ethan and daughter Paige.   After we tasted through the entire list of wine, Lindquist told stories.  He said that Paige’s first word as a child was “cheese”.   Of course!    We also played a few rounds of 1960’s music “name that tune”.   Jason and I didn’t recognize a single song; sadly we didn’t win any wine.  Oh well, we didn’t go home empty handed – we picked up a few bottles of the 2007 Qupe Central Coast Syrah, 2006 Qupe Syrah Alisos Vineyard (one of my favorites!) and the 2007 Qupe Grenache Purisima Mountain Vineyard.

I got my hands on the guide book for the 2009 Santa Barbara County Wine Futures Tasting about a week prior to the event and came to the sad realization that there was absolutely no way I could taste all 90 wines.  In light of this, I went over the list again and again, making cuts until I had a list of around 30 wines.   I arrived at the event, armed with my list and trusty  camera (and its dead battery, sigh) and proceeded to taste through the list.   Over the course of the event a few wineries really stood out with some stellar wines  – Ampelos, Beckmen, Jaffurs, Jonata, Kaena, Margerum.

Ampelos
Peter Work was on hand pouring a 2007 Lambda Estate Pinot Noir (tart cherry, and hints of clove) which won’t be released until spring 2010.  The Pinot already tastes wonderful – I would think that a few more years will give it additional complexity.  I was thrilled that Peter was pouring the Dornfelder that I barrel tasted with him back in January.  It is still the inky, glass-staining wine that I enjoyed straight from the barrel – but the past months have given the wine some more time to develop complexity.  This was probably the most unusual wine of the day.  It was also one of my favorites!

Beckmen
I tasted the 2008 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache (strawberry, baking spices and leather) and the 2007 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Syrah (black plum, fig and notes of coffee).   Biodynamic farming combined with winemaker Mikael Sigouin’s talents make for some amazing wines!

Jonata
With a price point of around $75, I probably would only drink the Jonata 2006 Todos Estate on a special occasion.  With that said, it was a real treat to taste this blend of 39% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Viognier.  Every sip was layer upon layer of flavor (black raspberry, black currant, clove, ginger, vanilla).

Kaena
Kaena winemaker/owner Mikael Sigouin (who is also the winemaker at Beckmen) was pouring his 2007 Grenache (only 75 cases made – bright flavors of cherry, cranberry and red raspberry) and a vineyard designate 2007 Larner Vineyard Grenache (150 cases made – deeply concentrated flavors of dark fruits).  Both were fabulous!  Mikael was also pouring his 2007 Hapa – a red blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Mourvédre (cherry, red raspberry, baking spices, anise and white pepper).   These will be released in the late summer – so you won’t have to wait long before you can get your hands on these wines.  Mark my words – this is a winemaker to watch!

Margerum
From what I understand, the 2007 Uber Syrah was an experiment.  Doug Margerum co-fermented 75% of the Syrah that was used in this wine.  This 75% was made by adding one tenth of a ton of each Syrah clone as it came in over the course of harvest.  While I was pretty skeptical this seemingly haphazard method, I have been a fan of Doug’s wines for years, so I tried the Uber with high hopes.  I was not let down – this is a seriously big, complex wine (black raspberry, plum, pepper, smoke) and I cannot wait to try it again after it is released this Fall.

Lastly, I had the good fortune to taste a barrel sample of a wine called Luna Matta  from a very tiny producer called De Su Propia Cosecha.   Only 80 cases of this wine (a blend of 40% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre) was made.   Though it is made right here in Santa Barbara county by a husband and wife team (Chris and Deanna King), I’d never heard of this wine…there I go living under a rock again.   This blend had a lush mouth feel and flavors of black plum, black pepper, spices and earth.   What a wonderful surprise to discover a “new” wine (well new to me).

All in all a fabulous event!  My thanks to the Winehound for picking up the torch (sadly dropped by the Wine Cask) and continuing the long tradition of the Santa Barbara Wine Futures event.

Tom Stolpman celebrating his 60th with friends in his vineyard.

Tom Stolpman celebrating his 60th with friends in his vineyard.

As my friends know, I am a huge fan of Stolpman wines.  Way back before Stolpman had its own label and was just a grower, my boyfriend Jason (now husband) and I would look for the name of the vineyard on wine.  Smart winemakers were buying up the outstanding fruit and turning it into exquisite wine.  When Stolpman started bottling its own wine, we immediately joined the wine club and started attending special events.  We even purchased all the red and rosé wine for our wedding from Stolpman.   Last year we shared a private dinner with Tom and were entertained all evening listening to his stories.  Suffice it to say this wine and winery are very special to me.   Fast forward to 2009 – Jason and I are thrilled to attend Tom’s 60th birthday party in the vineyard.  Tom & wife Marilyn’s son, Peter, put together a birthday bash for Tom complete with live music, wonderful food, bottles and bottles of outstanding wine and friends to share it all.

Peter Stolpman hamming it up for the camera

Peter Stolpman hamming it up for the camera

Jason and I made our way to the vineyard admiring the gorgeous vines along the dusty road to the clearing where party was happening.  As you might imagine Tom’s friends enjoy great wine and food.  After getting a glass of the Stolpman La Coppa Blanc (a blend of Roussanne and Viognier) we struck up a conversation at the cheese table with John from Palos Verdes.  He introduced us to an unbelievably buttery French cheese that he brought up from the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop.  As always our conversation turned to wine and then John said he had a Rafanelli in the car – and we “have to” try it.  I love it when people say things like this to me!  This bottle, a lovely Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon made by a 4th generation winemaking family, was a good indicator of what was in store for us that evening.  John invited us to sit at his table that evening where he proceeded to introduce us to some wonderful wines.  We tasted a 2004 Williams Selyem Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir (flavors of white pepper, black cherries and cola) and the 1997 Forman Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (nose of violets and anise with flavors of dark plum and spice).

Some of the wines that John pulled from his cellar for the party.

Some of the wines that John pulled from his cellar for the party.

Then John opened up an old bottle from his cellar.  It was a 1970 Chateau Latour (Bordeaux – blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot).

1970 Chateau Latour

1970 Chateau Latour

I’ve tasted a handful of wines from the 70’s but they’ve always been disappointing – this wine was a wonderful surprise.  In spite of its age (nearly 40 years old) the wine was well balanced with flavors of cedar, spice and leather and a soft mouth feel.

After the 1970 Chateau Latour, John opened up a 2001 Chateau de Malle Sauternes.

2001 Chateau de Malle Sauternes

2001 Chateau de Malle Sauternes

The wine was the color of honey and sunshine.  With flavors of pineapple, honey and custard it was sweet, but not that cloying, viscous sweetness that is found with many dessert wines.

9 liter bottle of 1997 Tonto Cuvee (one of a kind)

9 liter bottle of 1997 Tonto Cuvee (one of a kind)

John wasn’t the only one who was opening up fabulous wines!  Tom Stolpman brought a one of a kind, salmanazar bottle of 1997 Tonto Cuvee.  A salmanazar is 9 liters – that is equivalent to 12 standard sized bottles.  The Tonto Cuvee (50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Syrah) was made specifically to be auctioned off at the Central Coast Wine Classic.  This wine was a cooperative effort between McKeon-Phillips winery utilizing Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from Rusack Vineyard and Jaffurs Wine Cellars with Syrah fruit from the Stolpman Vineyard.   This wasn’t the only large format bottle – Peter Stolpman managed to open – with help from his father and a couple friends) a large format bottle of of sparkling wine – perfect for toasting Tom
and a picture perfect day in his vineyard.

Waiting for the sparkling wine to be opened...

Waiting for the sparkling wine to be opened...

Can Tom pop the cork?

Can Tom pop the cork?

Maybe if all three of us try?

Maybe if all three of us try?

Peter and Tom Stolpman were eventually able to pop the cork.

Peter and Tom Stolpman were eventually able to pop the cork.

Jason, Tom & Marilyn share a final toast of the evening

Jason, Tom & Marilyn share a final toast of the evening

13 Year Vertical of Qupé Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Syrah

13 Year Vertical of Qupé Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Syrah (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Jason and some friends and I are heading out to Au Bon Climat / Qupé for their annual open house event.  We were fortunate enough to be able to have a special vertical tasting of 13 years (2007-1995) of Qupé Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Syrah with winemaker / owner Robert Lindquist.  I’m a longtime fan of Lindquist’s award-winning Syrahs and so I was really looking forward to this once in a lifetime tasting opportunity.  We exceeded the speed limit (more times than I’d care to admit) in order to arrive at the winery by 10am.  After traveling for over an hour, we got out of the air conditioned car into a surprisingly warm (80+ degree) morning.  Then we walked into the winery and eventually gathered in a cordoned off area of the chilly and dimly lit Qupé barrel room.

Qupé winemaker / owner Robert Lindquist (photo credit:  Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Qupé winemaker / owner Robert Lindquist (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Lindquist was already there with all the Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Syrahs displayed on a table.  He handed each of us glasses and an information sheet detailing each vintage’s harvest dates, brix, pH, total acidity, % alcohol, yield per acre, and number of cases produced.  We started with the youngest one (a 2007 barrel sample) and moved vintage by vintage to the oldest.  First Lindquist spoke about “Z block” which is a custom 5 acre block of vines in Bien Nacido vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley.  It is located about 16 miles from the Pacific Ocean and was originally planted for Qupé in 1992.  It is on a southwest facing slope about 850 feet above sea level.  Lindquist went on to describe the soil which is a “combination of volcanic clay and Monterey shale with significant substrata of sandstone and limestone”.  Finally, the knowledge I gained from my college geology class came in handy.   As we tasted each vintage, Lindquist described the challenges presented during the growing season year, from too much wind during fruit set in 2007 to a cold, wet spring (which delays flowering and reduces yields) in 1998 due to El Niño.  To my palate, a few years really stood out as shining examples of Syrah – 2002 (great balance of spice and fruit), 1998 (Lindquist’s favorite) and 1999 (wonderful complexity including notes of chocolate).

Anne taking notes at the Qupé 13 year vertical tasting (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Taking notes at the Qupé 13 year vertical tasting (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

After the vertical tasting, we stayed around for the open house activities which included wines from Qupé, Au Bon Climat, Verdad, Ici/La-Bas, Vita Nova, Il Podere dell’Olivos, Clendenen Family Vineyards, Makor and Barham Mendelsohn.   With over 70 wines on the list available for tasting (not including the 13 I’d already sampled earlier in the morning) I decided it was best to take a few minutes to zero in on the ones that were new to me:  2005 Il Podere Dell’Olivos Teroldego (deep garnet color, fruity – very food friendly), 2001 Clendenen Family Nebbiolo (florals, earth and spice), 2005 Clendenen Family Syrah/Viognier (florals, white pepper, earth and dark purple fruit), 2002 Vita Nova Stolpman Vineyard Sangiovese (bright red fruit, very food friendly), 2001 Vita Nova Reservatum (a red blend with spicy, red currant and dark berry flavors).  I tasted a few other wines here and there, but the ones mentioned above actually came home with me.  After getting the wine loaded into the car, we headed out to the next event which was held at a new cooperative winemaking facility called Terravant.

Syrah fan and Bob Lindquist (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Syrah fan and Bob Lindquist (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Along the way we realized that we were going to be driving right by Foxen…so we unanimously voted to stop by.  (In case you are wondering, “yes” we have a designated driver.)  We headed over to the bar to taste the whites first.  A dynamic and knowledgeable young woman named Mo was behind the bar – expertly leading us through the 2007 Foxen Viognier (Vogelzang Vineyard, nose of honeysuckle and flavors of tropical fruit) and the 2007 Chardonnay (Tinaquaic Vineyard, dry farmed, bouquet of citrus fruit with green apple, vibrant acidity and mineral notes). Wine Enthusiast awarded this wine 94 points.  Unfortunately there were only made 500 cases produced, so it is going fast.  I cannot recall the last time I purchased a bottle of Chardonnay – but the Tinaquaic was just too good to pass up!  As we chatted with fellow tasters, a couple next to us commented that although it was their first visit to Foxen, they felt as though they’d been there before.   This experience of déjà vu is quite common – ever since Foxen was featured in the movie Sideways.  We also tasted a few reds beginning with the 2007 Pinot Noir (Bien Nacido Vineyard and Julia’s Vineyard, strawberry and cherries).  We tasted the 2006 Zinfandel (Lockshaw Vineyard, Paso Robles) and the 2006 Syrah (Williamson-Doré Vineyard, rich with flavors of black cherry, blackberry, smoke and white pepper).  I had to take home some of the Syrah too!  We talked with Allison the tasting room manager who boxed up our wine purchases and then we jumped back in the car to head to Terravant.

Inside the Terravant facility (photo credit Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Inside the Terravant facility (photo credit Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

A few minutes later, we arrived at the Terravant Wine Center.  First we tasted a few wines including the latest offering from Chien, the 2008 Edelzwicker (an Alsatian-style white blend of Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer).  Then we took a tour of this 40,000 square foot wine center.  This state-of-the-art facility was created in order to provide vintners with the equipment and laboratory necessary to control the quality from grape to bottle (not to mention executive offices and a large conference area where events can be held).  There were enormous insulated tanks with digital temperature displays, peristaltic pumps, open and closed top fermenters, cold stabilization and bottling equipment and much, much more.   Even the barrel room was high tech with automated relative humidity and temperature control and RFID tracking.  While everything was really impressive – lots of shiny chrome, automated thingamajigs that beep- it just seemed a little too industrial to me.  Maybe I am just a hopeless romantic, but to me wine is a wonderful marriage of art AND science – not just science.  I can think of a number of accidents that resulted in beautiful wine.  Case in point is the 2006 Ojai Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay – an accidental dessert wine – only two barrels were produced.  A small section of the Chardonnay grapes at the Solomon Hills Vineyard became infected with a fungus called botrytis cinerea (the so called “noble rot”).  Infected grapes shrivel up like raisins – thus concentrating the flavor.   I was fortunate enough to acquire one of the few bottles of this special wine.  Friends and I shared it with rich, creamy cheeses, nuts and dried fruits.  This wine itself was reminiscent of the great wines of Sauternes with a rich honeyed character.  Truly a happy accident!

The heat of the day gave way to a temperate evening – just perfect for the Tre Anelli & Consilience Paella and Empanada party!   Tre Anelli’s Verdehlo (an especially flavorful and food friendly white) was THE wine to drink while eating authentic paella and empanadas.  My mouth was so happy…could it get any better than this?  Then I went next door to Consilience for a glass of their mind-blowing, inky, explode-in-your-mouth Petite Sirah.  Oh my god, I love this wine.  Since there isn’t a damn thing about this wine that is “petite”, maybe it should be called Ginormous Sirah?

Tom Daughters, Anne and Jason Burns (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Tom Daughters, Anne and Jason Burns (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Consilience / Tre Anelli Paella & Empanada Party  (photo credit:  Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Consilience / Tre Anelli Paella & Empanada Party (photo credit: Michael Wilsker pixillusion.com)

Tonight we got together with a few friends to taste some selections from a new wine club (our friend Gary is the wine buyer).  My favorites were two reds from Kaleidos Winery. The 2004 Kaleidos Morpheus is a blend of 67% Syrah, 23% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre.  It had a silky mouth feel with flavors of dark chocolate, mocha and black cherry.  Robert Parker gave it 90-2 points.  With a price of around $28, this one drinks as though it is much pricier.  Definitely a good value!  They only made 266 cases though – so carpe diem!  Or better yet, carpe vinum!   The 2005 Kaleidos Oak Rock is a blend of 62% Syrah, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 11% Petit Verdot.  Earth, smoke, chocolate, black currants and spicy pepper flavors dominate this dark purple wine.  After picking up a few bottles, we then headed over to Los Olivos for dinner at Patrick’s Side Street Café.  As always, the “specials” were all enticing.  I eventually decided on halibut with wasabi tobiko and saffron rice.  WOW!  We shared a lovely bottle of the 2006 McPrice Myers L’Ange Rouge Grenache.   If you’re into scores, The Wine Spectator gave this wine 91 points.  I don’t care about a wine’s scores as much as its taste – I like the spicy, berry flavors and the long, long almost herbal finish.  Yum!

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